Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Three Ingredient Drinks

''The three-ingredient drinks are the classics,'' Audrey Saunders.

Martini; Manhattan; Daiquiri; Sidecar; Old-Fashioned -- three ingredient drinks all. In one way or another these drinks are ubiquitous. They share the benefit of timelessness and are still being slung together (with varying degrees of success) in most well-worn establishments all over the world. Whether you're sipping on an impeccably made Rye Manhattan in a fine cocktail bar or are scaling the mountain that is a 64oz frozen strawberry Daiquiri in the booth of a chain restaurant, you are lending your hand in the continuation of their legacy.

Of course to do them justice you have to treat them with respect, and to respect them you have to try your best to understand what the fuss is all about. Classics are classics for a reason, you have to give them the benefit of their longevity even if they are somewhat challenging. A well made cocktail does not show it's working parts, it is a seamless blend, it is something new. The taste is not a byproduct, a happenstance. It is an intention.

With this in mind it's actually quite hard to approach some of the classics. Time distorts ratios, brands, and in some sad cases crucial ingredients vanish from the face of the earth. To truly do these drinks justice you owe it to them (and yourself) to experiment. Not a big fan of the Gin you have in the cupboard? Go buy a few different pints and mix 'em up. That lemon juice you just squeezed look a little funky? Try out different produce stands and look for the best. Does your Rye clash dramatically with your sweet vermouth? Buy all the bottles of sweet vermouth you can find (they're cheap enough) and have at it.

Most importantly try different recipes. There is no one way to make any of the classics (despite what the zealots may say). You can open a dozen highly regarded cocktail books and find that each one uses different ratios, garnishes, and methods even for the most venerable cocktails. If you want to be high-minded you may certainly trace back the roots of a cocktail to its genealogical heir (the first recorded mention of drink "x") and whip it up like they used to back in the 1880s…but really, even back then spirits, juices, and tastes were so different that you'll probably still be left scratching your head after taking that first sip.

Mix up a drink a dozen times using various ratios, brands, and techniques until you find what your own taste buds distinguish as something new, something balanced, something intentional. Where to start? Three ingredient drinks: the classics.

In drinks,
Scott D.